Published August 2005, Island Fisherman Magazine
The Nitinat River Experience
By Doug Ferrier
I usually river fish for salmon in September, October and November, and bottom-bouncing is my preferred technique at this time of year. Over the years I have discovered that each river has its own requirements for optimum results - longer leaders perhaps; more or less lead; floats or no floats, and so forth. Each river also has its own water flow characteristics, and runs of the particular species of salmon you are fishing for if the time of the season is right.
My favorite river to fish in September is the Nitinat River, for there is always lots of action - so much that your arms get a good muscle burn by day's end.
The Nitinat offers lots of places to fish for those who don’t mind crossing the river and doing a little hiking. I have my own special spots, but year after year I head back to last year’s special hotspot only to discover the river has changed its flow pattern and the fish have moved elsewhere. When this happens we find fish by tracking them down, scouring the river banks, looking for fin flickers in the depths, or simpley choosing a pool with that "special look."
In September we find three species of salmon. Chinooks start showing up in early September, then coho and chums at month's end. The river usually opens 1 September, but fishing is a bit of a challenge because you have to track the salmon down - if there are any. I’ve walked the bank for several kilometers and not found one fish.
By the second week of September the Chinooks start showing up, but you still have to put in a little hiking and river crossing to find them. Once you do, get ready to catch some feisty, chrome beauties with sea lice still attached.
By the third week the river is loaded with Chinooks averaging 20+ pounds, but most of fish have acquired a golden-brown, almost orangish color. However, their fight remains the same and it’s always worth the trip.
By the last week of September all fish have turned color and some will be nesting. The fish still fight as well, but will tire a little sooner. Land them quickly and release them gently. You also have a good chance of catching chums and coho in the last week, but regulations prohibit retaining them at this time. On 1-15 October 2004, the Nitinat was closed to all fishing, which gave the fish peace and quiet for spawning.
Our preferred gear is a 10.5-foot rod, with either a center pin or levelwind reel, and 20-pound test mainline. Terminal tackle consists of a three-way swivel with two inches of pencil-lead sinker, 30 inches of 15-pound test leader, and a 1/0 or 2/0 hook. We seldom use a float because we usually fish the slightly faster water, so want to get down to the bottom where the fish tend to lay. It doesn’t get much better than using lead to get down there quickly, then let the current pull your gear along bottom, bouncing along until you get that big hit. For lure types I find a little orange/red wool mix works well along with the 1/4 inch orange Corky.
Check the current fishing regulations, which change without notice. Carry your license with you - it’s a long hike back to your vehicle. I’ve been checked a few times over the years fishing the Nitinat. I once crossed the river and hiked about a kilometer up river, and lo and behold who shows up but a Fisheries enforcement officer to check for barbless hooks and my license. No big deal because I always have both. Also make sure you fish within the boundaries, for areas like the Glory Hole and the Red Rock Pool are out of bounds.
Hiking the Nitinat River banks and surrounding bush is dangerous, not because of steep cliffs or raging rapids, but bears. Lots of them. It’s not uncommon for us to meet five different bears per fishing trip. Some can be aggressive and will walk right up to you, and then try to take whatever fish you have, or even your backpack and gear.
A few suggestions toward reducing the risk of bear encounters:
If you plan on keeping a fish, submerge it totally underwater. Eliminating fish smells reduces bear attractions. We usually fish for fun, so catch-and-release cuts down on the smell factor during our walks through the bush back to the truck.
Clean your catch in fast flowing water. Make sure all the blood and guts get carried away to disperse downstream.
Wear bear bells. About 20% of bear attacks happen when people startle them. Some days bears napping in the long grass along the riverbank blend right in until they wake up.
Leave your dogs and kids at home.
If you see a mother and a cub, pick up your gear and move out of their way - far, far away. About 70% of bear attacks are cub related.
Give all bears plenty of space. If one approaches, reel in, pick up your gear, stand together as a group, and start waving your arms. If the bear keeps coming, slowly back up as a group and leave your fish behind.
Use bear spray as a last resort. I have never had to use it and hope not to.
If planning a trip into the bush, remember that there is safety in numbers and use the all usual precautions. Travel with an experienced outdoors person or someone who knows the area. Tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back. Pack out what you take in. I usually take out more than I bring in – garbage, not fish.
The Nitinat River is approximately 90 minutes west of Duncan on Vancouver Island. Travel five minutes north from Duncan on the Island Highway and turn left at the Cowichan Lake turn off. Once at Lake Cowichan, continue on the north side of the lake to Youbou. At the old Youbou saw mill, the road turns into dirt with plenty of washboard and potholes. Then it’s about an hour to the Nitinat River, depending on road conditions - which tend to eat up vehicle suspensions. Also be warned that the road into the Nitinat is well traveled by oversized logging trucks, seven days a week, starting at 5 A.M. And even at the widest section of road these trucks are so huge they take up most of it.
Nevertheless, if you want to experience some arm-burning fishing fun, wildlife, and beautiful scenery try the Nitinat in September. Just watch out for those bears.
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